Vendemmia 2011

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 10:29:50 -0500

Pino Sola has been a source of education and support since the inception of Vias Imports, sharing his deep knowledge of the many appellations and varietals of the Italian peninsula. His management role at Colle dei Bardellini and his role as a regional representative of AIS (Italian Association of Sommeliers) make him an established enological authority in Liguria and have given him unique insights into the Italian wine industry as it has evolved over the years. Living in Italy, he sends us a report from the front lines of the 2011 harvest.

2011 Harvest

The principal characteristic of the 2011 harvest was a reduction in production from 50 million hectoliters to 44 million hectoliters, approximately a 5% r eduction. In the north there was a production increase in some areas, while in the south production losses were more prevalent, with Sicily suffering a 20% drop in yields. Veneto was the most productive region with 8.37 million hectolit ers. Wh en combined, the Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, P uglia and Sicily, historically productive regions, accounted for 26 million hectoliters or 60% of the national production. The reduction in yields was due in part to the heat in some regions, but the decrease was above all due to green harvests intended to limit over-production.

From a qualitative stand point, the climatic progression of the growing season, especially an excellent September, favored a harvest of good quality. The harvest, in most regions, was early, starting approximately 20 days in advance. However, in the north, harvests were only 10 days early, and in some places it was even late.

PIEMONTE - Very cold winter, rainy March and lots of heat resulted in limited yields. Moscato d’Asti was noteworthy this year and it has enjoyed a clear increase in sales. It’s shaping up to be a great vintage for the Lange with good Nebbiolo grapes at harvest for Barolo and Barbaresco.

LOMBARDIA - Harvest and forecast for these wines are similar to that of Piedmont.

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE - Cold winter, warm spring and dry, early harvests. Whites such as Sauvignon, Traminer and, in particular Pinot Grigio, embody the ideal balance between sugar and acidity. Good forecast for reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Teroldego. In Alto Adige, Kerner and Sylvaner are predicted to be big. The growing season favored the Mazon mountain and its unequalled Pinot Noir of extreme class.

VENETO - Soave production increased 5%, showing balanced fermentation that can best highlight its characteristics. Amarones in full vinification had healthy grapes and an excellent drying process, which lay the groundwork for big final wines.

EMILIA-ROMAGNA - Very hot with good temperature fluctuations between day and night which favored the harvesting of healthy grapes. Wines show good characteristics after fermentation.

TOSCANA - Normal winter, excellent spring with uniform rain and a balanced passage of the growing season guaranteed healthy grapes that indicate great Sangiovese for Chianti, Cabernet Sauvignon, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

LE MARCHE - Good forecasts for high profile wines, especially Verdicchio. Total production: 890,000 hl.

LAZIO - Abundant winter precipitation – hot April with early flowering in May. This land, rich in vigorous volcanic soil, favors the maturation of whites. Prognosis for Frascati and Castelli Romani is excellent.

ABRUZZO - Similar to 2010, the harvest was approximately 10 days late. Trebbiano, Passerina and Pecorino had healthy grapes that could result in great whites, rich in aromas and good acidity. Fleshy Montepulciano and Sangiovese proceeded to the wineries, benefiting from the heat wave ast the end of August.

CAMPANIA - The vegetative cycle was delayed by a long, cold winter. The spring was rainy and there was abundant heat in July and August with precious fluctuations in temperatures between day and night. On the one hand, these temperature shifts reduced yields by 10%, but on the other hand they increased grape quality significantly, especially in the Fiano and Greco varietals. Forecasts for high-quality whites and Taurasi.

PUGLIA - Harvest started on August 11^th with the picking of Chardonnay. The red harvest began the first 10 days of September with Negroamaro and Nero di Troia. Predictions point to very fresh wines with excellent aroma profiles and strong structure.

CALABRIA - One of the best growing seasons in years with splendid, healthy Gaglioppo bunches. Reds will have great quality and enviable balance between aromatic body and acidity.

SICILIA - Normal growing season, from flowering through to grape maturation. This season favored high quality harvests. Forecasts for the wine go from good to optimal depending on the zone and varietal. Sicily had the greatest yield reduction, decreasing production by 20%.

SARDEGNA - Hard, rainy winter followed by a favorable spring with good vegetation. Excellent flowering and bunch formation. Notable summer winds and discrete rain assured important water reserves. Healthy grapes were harvested followed by punctual vinification. Forecasts for excellent quality in the final wines.

A Christmas Wine Story

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 13:58:07 -0500

Dear Santa-

As per our agreement last year following the “snowman socks incident”, I relinquish all rights to a stocking and will take all my gifts in wine bottle form. I am writing you with a wish list of wines that I would love to see fill my wine fridge this year.

I don’t know if you get Wine Spectator up at the North Pole; however, this magazine puts out a Top 100 Wines list just in time for Christmas, and I’ve selected a few gems from the list that are must-haves for my cellar.

As you are well aware, I have a soft spot for Italian wines, so I’ll lead off my wish list with the 2009 Argiano Non Confunditur Rosso Toscano IGT. The Danish winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers (one of my fav winemaking rock stars) uses a deft hand to blend Italian and International varietals. That said, this wine has a 100% Tuscan heart with finely woven tannins that definitely make it a keeper.

Speaking of cellaring wines, I would also love to see how the 2009 Rocca di Frassinello Le Sughere Maremma Toscana IGT evolves. This Maremma bad boy brings together Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Bruce Sanderson and Antonio Galloni both agree that this wine surpasses the 90 points bar – with a double endorsement like that, how can an Italo-enophile say no???

For more instantaneous gratification, I would like to see the 2009 Terredora di Paolo Greco di Tufo DOCG under the tree this year. (I mean, you can’t age everything…) Bruce Sanderson says it’s “A beauty, focused and fresh, with lively fresh-cut honeydew melon and citrus backed by hints of hot stone and spring herbs on the long, cream-tinged finish.” - Now that’s pure Campanian poetry that will sweep me right into 2012!

While I do love Italian wine, I still actively participate in an equal opportunity policy when it comes to wines from the Southern Hemisphere. So, I’d like to round out my wish list with the 2009 Bodega Noemia Malbec Alto Valle Rio Negro from Patagonia. There’s Malbec and then there is Malbec, and then there is Noemia – this killer wine comes from one of the southern-most wineries in the world and is made from Malbec that is destemmed by hand – now that’s putting TLC into what you do…

Hope this list helps as you peruse the wine shops with the elves.

Sincerely,

Ralphie

DOC Tour

Vendemmia 2011

A Christmas Wine Story